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Appellations

Grand Cru · Côte de Nuits

Clos de Vougeot

Vougeot · red · 50

Fifty hectares behind one Cistercian wall, divided among roughly eighty owners.

Under the vines

Three distinct bands: thin and stony at the top, deeper in the middle, damp and flat at the road.

In the glass

Everything from superb to ordinary. The upper parcels are grand cru by any measure; the lowest would be village anywhere else.

Why it sits here

The monks reputedly blended all three levels, which only makes sense if the levels differ.

Commonly misread

That the appellation guarantees the wine. Clos de Vougeot is the clearest evidence in Burgundy that it cannot.

Names worth knowing

Méo-Camuzet, Anne Gros, Leroy, Grivot, Château de la Tour, Faiveley