Burgundy
Appellations
The ground Burgundy argues about, sorted into its own hierarchy.
Chablis
A cold pocket a hundred kilometres north, on fossil-oyster marl.
- Chablis Grand CruGrand CruOne appellation covering seven named climats on a single south-west facing slope.
- Montée de TonnerrePremier CruThe best of the Chablis premiers crus, continuing the grand cru slope.
- ChablisVillageA hundred kilometres from the Côte d'Or, on fossil-oyster marl, in a frost-prone pocket.
Côte de Nuits
Twenty kilometres of hillside that grow most of the world's expensive red wine.
- Bonnes-MaresGrand CruChambolle's other grand cru, and its opposite: dark, firm and slow.
- ChambertinGrand CruThe most powerful of the nine Gevrey grands crus, and Napoleon's reported favourite.
- Chambertin-Clos de BèzeGrand CruThe older of the two, a monastic gift of the seventh century, and by most accounts the finer.
- Chapelle-ChambertinGrand CruNamed for a chapel demolished in the Revolution, beside Griotte.
- Charmes-ChambertinGrand CruThe softest and largest of Gevrey's grands crus, downslope towards the road.
- Clos de la RocheGrand CruThe largest and firmest of Morey's grands crus, closest to Gevrey in character.
- Clos de TartGrand CruA walled monopole that has changed hands only a handful of times since 1141.
- Clos de VougeotGrand CruFifty hectares behind one Cistercian wall, divided among roughly eighty owners.
- Clos des LambraysGrand CruA near-monopole promoted to grand cru only in 1981.
- Clos Saint-DenisGrand CruThe village's namesake, and the most perfumed of its four grands crus.
- ÉchezeauxGrand CruEleven separately named sub-parcels gathered under one grand cru appellation.
- Grands ÉchezeauxGrand CruA quarter the size of Échezeaux and consistently finer.
- Griotte-ChambertinGrand CruA tiny natural amphitheatre below Chambertin, and the most perfumed of the nine.
- La Grande RueGrand CruA narrow strip between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti, promoted from premier cru in 1992.
- La RomanéeGrand CruThe smallest appellation in France, directly above Romanée-Conti.
- La TâcheGrand CruThe largest of the Vosne monopoles, and the most exotic of them.
- Latricières-ChambertinGrand CruDirectly south of Chambertin, at the mouth of a combe.
- Mazis-ChambertinGrand CruNorth of Clos de Bèze, and the closest in character to it.
- Mazoyères-ChambertinGrand CruA grand cru that mostly disappears into its neighbour's name.
- MusignyGrand CruThe most perfumed red in Burgundy, and the only white grand cru in the Côte de Nuits.
- RichebourgGrand CruThe most opulent of Vosne's grands crus, north of Romanée-Conti.
- Romanée-ContiGrand CruOne point eight hectares, one owner, and the most expensive wine in the world.
- Romanée-Saint-VivantGrand CruThe lowest of the block, nearest the village, and the most delicate.
- Ruchottes-ChambertinGrand CruThe smallest and highest of the nine, on almost bare rock.
- Aux MalconsortsPremier CruRuns along La Tâche's southern boundary on the same band of mid-slope.
- Clos de la MaréchalePremier CruThe largest premier cru monopole on the Côte de Nuits, in Premeaux.
- Clos Saint-JacquesPremier CruThe premier cru everyone agrees should have been a grand cru.
- Les AmoureusesPremier CruImmediately below Musigny, and priced above several grands crus.
- Les Saint-GeorgesPremier CruGave the village half its name, and has a grand cru promotion case running.
- Les VaucrainsPremier CruAbove Les Saint-Georges, and the slowest-maturing wine in the commune.
- Chambolle-MusignyVillageThe most aromatic commune on the Côte de Nuits, and the most reliably charming village wine.
- Gevrey-ChambertinVillageThe largest commune on the Côte de Nuits, with nine grands crus and the most vineyard.
- MarsannayVillageThe northern end of the Côte de Nuits, and the only appellation permitted all three colours.
- Morey-Saint-DenisVillageThe hinge between Gevrey and Chambolle, with four grands crus and a low profile.
- Nuits-Saint-GeorgesVillageThe commercial capital of the Côte de Nuits, with forty premiers crus and no grand cru.
- Vosne-RomanéeVillageEight grands crus, the most expensive village wine in Burgundy, and no flat land to speak of.
- Hautes-Côtes de Nuits & de BeauneRégionaleThe plateau behind the Côte, higher and cooler, and increasingly interesting.
Côte de Beaune
One strange hill, two contrasting reds, and the greatest white wine there is.
- Bâtard-MontrachetGrand CruDownslope of Montrachet, on deeper ground, and the broadest of the family.
- Bienvenues-Bâtard-MontrachetGrand CruA small parcel on Bâtard's Puligny flank, finer and more floral.
- Chevalier-MontrachetGrand CruDirectly upslope of Montrachet, on the thinnest soil of the family.
- CortonGrand CruThe Côte de Beaune's only red grand cru, and by far the largest grand cru in Burgundy.
- Corton-CharlemagneGrand CruThe slowest and most austere of the great white Burgundies, on the hill's upper western flank.
- Criots-Bâtard-MontrachetGrand CruThe smallest of the Montrachet family, entirely within Chassagne.
- MontrachetGrand CruEight hectares straddling two communes, and the benchmark for dry white wine.
- Clos des DucsPremier CruA walled monopole behind the domaine at the top of the village.
- Clos des MouchesPremier CruBeaune's most famous climat, and one of the few premiers crus known for both colours.
- En RemillyPremier CruRuns up against Chevalier-Montrachet from the other side of the ridge.
- Les CailleretsPremier CruVolnay's benchmark climat, on stony ground in the middle of the slope.
- Les ÉpenotsPremier CruPommard's other great climat, and the more elegant of the two.
- Les GenevrièresPremier CruBetween Perrières above and Charmes below, and a good deal like both.
- Les PerrièresPremier CruMeursault's finest climat, and the one always proposed for promotion.
- Les RugiensPremier CruPommard's best, named for the red iron in its soil, with a promotion case of its own.
- Chassagne-MontrachetVillageBroader than Puligny, and still making a substantial quantity of red nobody wants.
- MeursaultVillageThe largest white wine commune in Burgundy, with no grand cru and three great premiers crus.
- PommardVillageThe firm one: iron-rich clay, tannin, and a name that sold a great deal of indifferent wine.
- Puligny-MontrachetVillageThe precise one: four grands crus, high tension, and cellars that flood.
- Saint-AubinVillageIn the hills behind Puligny, higher and cooler, and the standard answer to rising prices.
- VolnayVillagePommard's opposite, and the best first serious red Burgundy most people can buy.
- BourgogneRégionaleThe base of the pyramid, and over half of everything Burgundy makes.
- Bourgogne AligotéRégionaleBurgundy's other white grape, region-wide, and the subject of a quiet revival.
Côte Chalonnaise
The same grapes and the same hierarchy, minus the grands crus and the prices.
Mâconnais
Warmer, gentler, almost entirely chardonnay. Burgundy's engine room.