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Appellations

Premier Cru · Côte de Beaune

En Remilly

Saint-Aubin · white · 24

Runs up against Chevalier-Montrachet from the other side of the ridge.

Under the vines

The same stony limestone as its famous neighbour, a little higher and cooler.

In the glass

Tense and citrus-driven; a smaller-scale Puligny at a fraction of the price.

Why it sits here

Saint-Aubin's altitude was a defect in the twentieth century and is increasingly an asset.

Commonly misread

That it is still a secret. It was, until roughly 2010.

Names worth knowing

Hubert Lamy, Marc Colin, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey